Five Ten Dragon
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4.95/5 based on 96 user ratings.
- Closure System: Laces
- Upper: Synthetic Cowdura
- Outsole: 3.5mm Stealth Hf Rubber
- Last: Slip Last
- Symmetry: High
- Profile: Aggressive
- Sensitivity: High
- Hardness: Soft
- Weight: 5.6oz (size 9)
- Special Features:
- Color: Dragon Red
- Sizes: 3-13 US Men’s
Fit and Sizing
Sizes based on 44 user testimonials.
4 out of 5 Review By Chris F
The Five Ten Dragon shoes have been used 3-4 times a week, mostly at indoor climbing gyms. They have been taken outdoors maybe 10 times during their life between Red River Gorge in Kentucky and Little Rock City In Tennessee.
I sized up half a size from my street shoe for the Dragons and they fit well.
For comparison my street shoe size is US 12, I wear US 11.5 in Five Ten Hi-Angles and Moccasyms, US 12.5 in Blackwings, Teams, and Dragons. They are not as comfortable as the Hi-Angles but in my opinion are more comfortable than the Five Ten Teams, which I feel do not break in as well due to the extra rubber protection on the toe box.
Despite what Five Ten mentions of synthetic cowdura not stretching I would say that they stretched a quarter size up after being broken in.
They started to break in and feel relatively more comfortable after about two weeks. The laces allowed for a good amount of adjustability and helped with the initial breaking in process when the laces near the toe box were loosened up.
The soft rubber on the rand keeps the shoe feeling relatively comfortable on the toe knuckles even though the shoes are very downturned.
The Dragons worked well for my style of climbing which is mostly overhanging sport routes and boulders. They are very effective for smearing overhanging walls and edges, but are painful to smear on slab.
The best thing about the Five Ten Dragon is the shape of the arch. It almost adds a sort of springiness when moving off foot chips. These are the shoes that when I’m struggling to toe in, I wish I were wearing. I felt that they excelled on slightly overhanging technical sport routes.
They preformed great for heel hooking, and the extended heel rubber is nice to lock into an edge. Toe hooks were manageable but somewhat painful in certain situations because of the lack of toe protection.
Since the Dragons are very downturned, it is pretty difficult to wear them for an extended period of time. Even though the laces allow for good adjustability they make it more of a process to take the shoes on and off.
They are very sensitive as the rubber is pretty thin and soft. The thin 3.5mm Stealth HF rubber keeps the toe sensitive so you can really feel how you are placing your feet.
I prefer the feeling of thinner softer shoes, but overtime I felt the lack of stiffness weakened the area from the ball of the foot to the big toe. I think this is kind of my own problem, but going back and forth between stiffer shoes like the Five Ten Hi-Angles allowed my foot some recovery time.
I think the worst thing about these shoes is their durability, after three months the rand wore through on each shoe. I have had three pairs of Dragon’s and have worn through the rand on every pair at around the three-month mark. On a sharp route at Red River Gorge, I have even sliced through the rand. But even with a hole in the toe, I can get away with another month of using them, so every pair has lasted me about four months.
They cost $175 retail, and I feel that they are worth the price if you’re looking for a projecting shoe. The price is a little steep if these are your main runners, especially if they need to be turned over every three to four months.
I would recommend the Five Ten Dragons if what you mostly climb is overhanging sport routes or boulders. Even though they preform well on vertical terrain they can become especially painful on longer routes, and very uncomfortable on slab.
Chris F – Level 3 Expert
I am a climbing route setter and a geek for the best gear. My passion for conquering fears, testing myself and putting together puzzles has driven my fascination with climbing. I primarily boulder, and sport climb, but I have dabbled in all aspects of climbing.
Finding the best bouldering shoes for wide feet can be a bit of a struggle especially because climbing shoes already fit pretty snug. Fortunately there are options that a climber with wide feet can take advantage of that will not sacrifice too much performance for comfort.