Five Ten Dragon

$175.00 MSRP

Climb Score

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User Ratings

4.95/5 based on 96 user ratings.

Specs

  • Closure System: Laces
  • Upper: Synthetic Cowdura
  • Lining:
  • Insole: 
  • Midsole:
  • Outsole: 3.5mm Stealth Hf Rubber
  • Last: Slip Last
  • Symmetry: High
  • Profile: Aggressive
  • Sensitivity: High
  • Hardness: Soft
  • Weight: 5.6oz (size 9)
  • Special Features: 
  • Color: Dragon Red
  • Sizes: 3-13 US Men’s
Aggressive Climbing Shoes

AGGRESSIVE

HIGH ASYMMETRY

Soft Climbing

SOFT RUBBER

Vegan Climbing Shoes

Vegan

The Good

  • The majority of users were impressed with the skin tight fit.
  • Tester's were happy with the sensitivity for precision footwork.
  • Users appreciated the precise toe for difficult projecting.
  • Many users were impressed with the shoes' smearing ability.
  • Many users thought it preformed well for edging.
  • Many users thought the heel fit and performed well for heel hooking.
  • Based on a number of reviews, many were impressed with the very sticky Stealth Hf rubber.
  • Some users thought the shoe was comfortable.
  • 5 users were surprised to appreciate the the lace up style for dialing in the fit.
  • 4 users thought the shoe fit well for a narrow heel.
  • 3 users were impressed that the shoe was lightweight.
  • 1 user was impressed with the shoes' flexibility.

The Bad

  • Users widely agree that the Dragon does not toe hook comfortably.
  • 5 users had dead space in the heel.
  • 5 users thought the shoe had an uncomfortable break in period.
  • 3 users claimed the shoe was uncomfortable for wide feet.
  • 1 user experienced rand delimitation.
  • 1 tester felt that although the soft and thin rubber has excellent friction properties, it was not very durable.

Fit and Sizing

Sizes based on 44 user testimonials.

1/2 Size Up
60%
Stay True
34%
1/2 Size Down
6%

Expert Reviews

Five Ten Dragon Review

Locations

The Five Ten Dragon shoes have been used 3-4 times a week, mostly at indoor climbing gyms. They have been taken outdoors maybe 10 times during their life between Red River Gorge in Kentucky and Little Rock City In Tennessee.

Sizing

I sized up half a size from my street shoe for the Dragons and they fit well.

For comparison my street shoe size is US 12, I wear US 11.5 in Five Ten Hi-Angles and Moccasyms, US 12.5 in Blackwings, Teams, and Dragons. They are not as comfortable as the Hi-Angles but in my opinion are more comfortable than the Five Ten Teams, which I feel do not break in as well due to the extra rubber protection on the toe box.

Despite what Five Ten mentions of synthetic cowdura not stretching I would say that they stretched a quarter size up after being broken in.

Close up of Five Ten Dragon

Fit

The Dragons fit like a glove, my feet have high arches so the aggressive asymmetry worked well for my foot. I felt the Dragons took the advantage to take all the dead space out of the shoe.

Comfort

They started to break in and feel relatively more comfortable after about two weeks. The laces allowed for a good amount of adjustability and helped with the initial breaking in process when the laces near the toe box were loosened up.

The soft rubber on the rand keeps the shoe feeling relatively comfortable on the toe knuckles even though the shoes are very downturned.

Climbing in Five Ten Dragon
Grimace V8. Little Rock City, Tennessee.

Performance

The Dragons worked well for my style of climbing which is mostly overhanging sport routes and boulders. They are very effective for smearing overhanging walls and edges, but are painful to smear on slab.

The best thing about the Five Ten Dragon is the shape of the arch. It almost adds a sort of springiness when moving off foot chips. These are the shoes that when I’m struggling to toe in, I wish I were wearing. I felt that they excelled on slightly overhanging technical sport routes.

Close Up of Five Ten Dragon Heel
Close-up of Heel Rubber.

They preformed great for heel hooking, and the extended heel rubber is nice to lock into an edge. Toe hooks were manageable but somewhat painful in certain situations because of the lack of toe protection.

Since the Dragons are very downturned, it is pretty difficult to wear them for an extended period of time. Even though the laces allow for good adjustability they make it more of a process to take the shoes on and off.

Sensitivity

They are very sensitive as the rubber is pretty thin and soft. The thin 3.5mm Stealth HF rubber keeps the toe sensitive so you can really feel how you are placing your feet.

I prefer the feeling of thinner softer shoes, but overtime I felt the lack of stiffness weakened the area from the ball of the foot to the big toe. I think this is kind of my own problem, but going back and forth between stiffer shoes like the Five Ten Hi-Angles allowed my foot some recovery time.

Durability

I think the worst thing about these shoes is their durability, after three months the rand wore through on each shoe. I have had three pairs of Dragon’s and have worn through the rand on every pair at around the three-month mark. On a sharp route at Red River Gorge, I have even sliced through the rand. But even with a hole in the toe, I can get away with another month of using them, so every pair has lasted me about four months.

Worn out toe on Five Ten Dragon
Worn out toe rubber on the Five Ten Dragon.

Value

They cost $175 retail, and I feel that they are worth the price if you’re looking for a projecting shoe. The price is a little steep if these are your main runners, especially if they need to be turned over every three to four months.

I would recommend the Five Ten Dragons if what you mostly climb is overhanging sport routes or boulders. Even though they preform well on vertical terrain they can become especially painful on longer routes, and very uncomfortable on slab.

Chris F – Level 3 Expert

Chris F


I am a climbing route setter and a geek for the best gear. My passion for conquering fears, testing myself and putting together puzzles has driven my fascination with climbing. I primarily boulder, and sport climb, but I have dabbled in all aspects of climbing.

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