15 Pros/Cons of Five Ten Verdon Lace Climbing Shoes

Five Ten Verdon Lace

$160.00 MSRP

Climb Score

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The Verdon Lace version has been discontinued for 2018.

The Five Ten Verdon VCS is the closest alternative.

User Ratings

4/5 based on 28 user ratings.

Specs

  • Closure System: Laces
  • Upper: Natural Leather
  • Lining: Synthetic
  • Insole: 
  • Midsole: Thermoplastic
  • Outsole: 4mm Stealth C4 Rubber
  • Last: Slip Last
  • Symmetry: Moderate
  • Profile: Moderate
  • Sensitivity: Moderate
  • Hardness: Moderate
  • Weight: 
  • Special Features: EVA Midsole
  • Color: Peacock
  • Sizes: 3-14 US Men’s

The Good

  • Most all users were impressed with micro edging performance, especially in small pockets.
  • Users appreciated the Clarino lining that makes it comfortable for taking the shoes on and off.
  • Some users were impressed with the toe box maintaining it's stiffness.
  • Many users thought the shoe was comfortable.
  • Many recommended them for pocket style limestone climbing.
  • 5 reviewers thought the heel fit well with not too much deadspace.
  • 1 user appreciated the Clarino liner not chaffing the achilles heel.
  • 1 user thought the shoe was breathable.

The Bad

  • Many users felt that it did not perform well smearing.
  • Some user complained about the laces being extra long.
  • Some users thought that it was not a good all-around shoe.
  • 4 users mention that the Verdon is terrible for crack climbing.
  • 1 user reported the midsole losing rigidity.
  • 1 user had dead space in the toe box.
  • 1 user had defect issues with stitching coming undone.
Moderate Downturn

Slight Downturn

Moderate Asymmetry

Med-High ASYMMETRY

Moderate Rubber

Medium Stiff RUBBER

Fit and Sizing

Sizes based on 34 user testimonials.

1/2 Size Up
6%
Stay True
24%
1/2 Size Down
70%

EXPERT REVIEWS

Five Ten Verdon Climbing Shoes

Locations

I mainly used the Five Ten Verdons outdoors on moderate sport routes, 5.10-5.11+. I mostly climbed on sandstone in Arkansas, Illinois, Tennessee, and Alabama with these shoes and I found they performed well in both slab and vertical technical climbing which is the main reason I liked them so much.

Climbing in Jackson Falls with Five Ten Verdon
Hidden Treasures 5.12a in Jackson Falls, Illinois.

Sizing

I have a normal foot in terms of width and I usually wear a US size 13 street shoe. In climbing shoes, I have always worn a 12 and found that to be perfect.  In Five Ten specifically, I have always worn a  US 12 in other Five Ten models such as the Anasazi Arrowhead, Stonelands VCS, Synthetic Moccasym, and Guide. I also wear a 12 US in the Evolv Velcro Luchador’s. However, I would have sized down to US 11.5 if I were to purchase the Verdons again.

Five Ten Verdon Laces

Fit

The Verdon is hands down one of the most comfortable shoes I have owned, though that may be due in part to the fact that I felt they were a bit larger than what I am accustomed to in a size 12.

They basically molded to my feet and did not stretch anymore after they fit.

I did not notice them stretching too much and besides forming to my foot. After I had worn the shoe on a couple climbing trips, they maintained their form. The synthetic liner managed the stretching and they felt not more than a half size larger when they broke in.

Performance

This shoe edges very well and is somewhat stiff yet still has a lot of  flexibility for smearing. They perform best on flat walls with overall edging and smearing moves.

The rand does wrap over the front of the shoe to protect the toe, so it is comfortable for toe hooking.

I believe they perform worst on steep overhung sport routes or boulder problems. Simply due to the fact that they are not extremely aggressive and lack heel hooking power. This may be partly because I could have sized down more, but the heel cup had extra baggage and would slide during heel hooking.

Climbing in Five Ten Verdon

Sensitivity

The Verdon’s run more on the sensitive side, especially if they are fitted tight. They are more sensitive than moderate shoes like the Five Ten Guide but not as sensitive as the Anasazi Arrowhead. They provide a good middle ground for someone seeking a sensitive shoe that is still supportive enough for edging on small footholds.

Five Ten Verdon Heel Cup

Durability

The durability of the Five Ten Verdon was okay, I always wish I can get more out of a climbing shoe. Moderate durability seems to be common for most Five Ten shoes but its a sacrifice I am willing to make for my favorite shoe company!

Overall they lasted a little over 7 months and I climbed in them indoors and outdoors maybe two days a week at most. I found that the sole wore out too quickly especially at the toe which makes sense as I mainly used them on routes requiring small edging power.

Five Ten Verdon Toe Damage

Value

Overall, the comfort this shoe  added to the fact that I felt they were adequately supportive and sensitive makes them a superb buy for climbing vertical or slab walls.

I do believe the Five Ten Verdon are worth their value and I would definitely recommend them to anyone looking for an all around shoe for moderate route climbing on multipitch or long sport routes.

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