All About No Edge Climbing Shoes

What is No Edge?

La Sportiva’s No Edge climbing shoes are setting a new standard for shoe performance. They have taken away the edge tip of a climbing shoe, replaced it with a rounded toe cap, and rounded out the rest of the shoe platform.

La Sportiva No Edge Genius

Where did No Edge come from?

Overhanging climbing has encouraged softer rubber for more friction because climbs are getting harder, and since their is less weight on your feet a stiffer rubber isn’t as necessary for supporting your foot. Because softer rubber rounds out easier, midway through the life of a climbing shoe climbers began getting used to a rounded out toe. Edge Vs No Edge Force Direction No Edge may seem counter intuitive, but La Sportiva noticed that broken in climbing shoes are the preferred go-to shoes for their athletes instead of a brand new pair of shoes. It might seem obvious but worn in climbing shoes fit more comfortably, and the soft rubber will most likely have that rounded out edge.

How does No Edge work?

Looking into it, that rounded out edge has more surface area than the contact of an edge. The larger surface area dissipates weight more evenly so friction depends less on one single contact point. This means that there is more opportunity for friction. Uniform pressure across the toe surface allows for an adaptable toe that will adjust to edge-smear features. No Edge Surface Contact

No Edge Durability

A No Edge climbing shoe has the feel of a broken in a shoe but is more durable because it begins rounded with 3mm of rubber. Whereas, a traditional 3mm edged shoe develops a rounded edge after half the rubber has been scrubbed off. Apart from the head start with rubber thickness, no edge climbing shoes are still as durable or even more durable than most shoes because the wear is spread across a larger toe surface.

No Edge Climbing

The No Edge shoes have increased sensitivity because they bring your foot closer and to a more uniform distance from the rock surface. This works great for smearing small edges and features because foot placement is more responsive.

No Edge Distance From Rock Surface

Since you can’t rely on a platform edge, being on your toes becomes more important. No Edge climbing shoes focus on the big toe as the point of contact. This means that there is precision required for using the big toe, but also a flexibility for larger toe surface area to place the foot.

Are No Edge Climbing Shoes More Natural?

Climbing in No Edge shoes are described as natural and fluid, but what does that actually mean? La Sportiva developed No Edge technology around the natural shape of the foot, this introduces principles of “natural” barefoot climbing because all the edges on the shoe are rounded like your toes. The natural edge offers consistent performance in various foot positions. This makes for a more fluid climbing experience because it allows a wide variety of body positions on the same foothold.

Benefits of No Edge Climbing Shoes

  • Good Durability
  • Heightened Sensitivity
  • Uniform and Adaptable Toe Pressure
  • Secure in Wide Variety of Toe Positions
  • Larger Surface Area for Rubber Contact = More Friction
  • Consistant Performance throughout the Life of the Shoe

Downsides to No Edge Climbing Shoes

  • High Price
  • Limited Shoe Options
  • Some Resolers don’t Repair No Edge Shoes yet

La Sportiva No Edge Climbing Shoes

La Sportiva Genius

La Sportiva Genius

Specifications

  • 3mm Vibram XS Grip2 Outsole
  • Asymmetrical Lace Closure System
  • Unlined Hybrid Suede and Microfiber Upper
  • Sizes: 32-46 EU

La Sportiva Futura

La Sportiva Futura

Specifications

  • Medium Asymmetry
  • Quick Velcro Closure
  • 3mm Vibram XS Grip2 Outsole
  • Unlined Hybrid Suede and Microfiber Upper
  • Sizes: 32-46 EU

La Sportiva Speedster

La Sportiva Speedster

Specifications

  • High Asymmetry
  • Elastic Slip-On Closure
  • 3mm Vibram XS Grip2 Outsole
  • Unlined Hybrid Suede and Microfiber Upper
  • Sizes: 32-46 EU

La Sportiva Maverink

Maverink

Specifications

  • No Midsole
  • Asymmetric
  • Elastic Slip-On Closure
  • 3mm Vibram XS Grip2 Outsole
  • Unlined Hybrid Suede and Microfiber Upper
  • Sizes: 32-42 EU